Bernina 730 Record and oscillating vs rotary hook

Bernina 730 Record

I won the 730 on the auction site last week and only bought it because it was cheap (they usually go for much more). When I got it home it was way better than I expected. It hadn't seen all that much use, particularly for a machine made 49 years ago. This is commonly described as identical to the 830 Record but with an all steel body. Not sure why they aren't worth as much as the 830 but I've had the latter and this machine felt better, smoother and generally nicer. Also heavier of course but that shouldn't bother me for another 20 years or so.
This machine came with an adaptor for short shank feet (so I could use Singer feet if necessary) but it came with nearly every standard and optional foot. I stole one from the 530-2 and it seems to now be complete. My friend described her Bernina (a 740 Favorit) as "just very pleasant to sew with".
The machine has the same 20 built-in stitches the 830 has. 
Oh, and she's a keeper: Just too nice a machine to part with.

It's a free arm. Table removed with simple lever.

Amazing condition and very shiny

Accessories swivel and don't have to be removed

What's with all this hook business?

The 740 has a full rotary hook (the hook keeps going around in the same direction) but the 30 somethings (530, 630, 730, 830) are all oscillating hook machines. I used to think the rotary hook must be better since it didn't have to keep stopping and changing direction, but that's not necessarily the case. Industrial machines nearly always have rotary hooks because going continuously in the same direction means they can go faster. However there are exceptions: The domestic 201 Singer has a full rotary hook while the 31-20 industrial (the tailor's machine) has an oscillating hook. Also, all model 15s are oscillating hook, and the 115 has a rotary hook. The 15 is widely considered to be a better machine than the 115, mostly due to the heavier components but the rotation of the hook seems to have no bearing on its abilities. The 115 was dropped about a hundred years ago, in case you were wondering. My conclusion is this: Rotary hook is fantastic for speed but tailoring and flexible domestic machines seem to favour oscillating hooks. The 201 is pretty hard to beat, but it only stitches in a straight line (and it does this perfectly).

Bernina 830 record stitch pattern decals

The ones on my recent acquisition were a bit worn, so I asked a friend on quiltingboard.com to photograph hers so I could reproduce them. Well here they are, hosted on Google docs in svg, pdf and png formats.
I plan to print them onto waterslide decal paper and will let you all know how it goes.
Update: It went extremely well. The backing can only just be seen, and since I printed them exactly the same size as the original I didn't have to rub the remains of the originals off, just slid the new one over the top.

DIY Vintage Machine Japanning

The 1891 Singer, I decided, needed a lick of paint, particularly since the decals were almost gone.
What I discovered was that the stuff that's on there is not actually paint at all, but Japan, named from the country that made it famous. It's very much like enamel, but is made from shellac and lamp black. The latter is, I believe, just fine charcoal and the acceptable substitute is asphaltum. Asphaltum is available today, lamp black not as much. When the sewing machines were painted with this, they were (as with enamel) placed into an oven overnight, and this process repeated twice more. Is it any wonder sewing machines cost so much?
Anyway, I decided that instead of replacing the Japan with enamel, I'd have a go at the original finish. To this end, I decided to try an experiment: Japan made from a 1920s record. Assuming this will fail, I've ordered and received shellac flakes and asphaltum (from Jackson's art supplies in Perth). See Woodworking forum for the basis of my research.
The record was from the tip shop. When I told him what it was for he only charged 50 cents. Bargain! It takes almost a whole week to dissolve a record, so last weekend I smashed it all up and placed it in an ice cream container, like so:

Pretty stupid to put it in this for two reasons:
1. What if metho also dissolves vinyl?
2. I'm supposed to shake it each day!
So, after covering it with cling film for a day or two and stirring very carefully, I transferred it into a clean, empty, dry morello cherry jar. Shook it at least once a day and now, six days later, it's very thick, smells like tar and about as painty as it's going to get.
Stripping the VS2
I stripped the "bright work" off, and the sewing machine looked like this:

Applied some paint stripper, waited 15 minutes and washed it off. The tin suggested applying it 2-3mm thick but I didn't want it to eat my precious old lady, so it went on thin:

Painted with stripper

After hosing

Still a lot of old Japan there, but the stripper meant it was thinner and easier to remove (although by no means easy). I used a scraper, wire drill attachment (essentially useless for removal but good for removing the newly formed rust) and sandpaper (don't use a machine on the curved surfaces or they won't be for long).
Eventually it all came off:

This is also after cleaning with metho which got a lot more black stuff off. I kept wiping with clean cloth and metho until there was no more black stuff. Sent a photo to a friend who said it looks raw and industrial. Yes, it does now, but if I didn't coat her with something, she'd be orange by the day's end.
Also mentioned to my friend that I never thought I'd get excited by a naked old lady (122 years old, in fact). Another thought was a guilty one: This is porn to a sewing machine collector.
OK, enough humour. You'll probably notice I've removed a lot more stuff as I've gone along: It became obvious that if I have to bake this in the oven (or hooded barbecue - apparently the tar smell gets much worse once it gets hot and I do love my oven) I don't want anything to go with it if not necessary, so I took a lot more things off. It'll possibly be difficult to get them back on, since they include the shuttle race and work clamp, but I know I can do it.
First coat and she looks like this:

I was very disappointed that it's so dull, but I had a look at the discussion pages again, and someone mentioned that it's dull and rough until it goes into the oven, so I'll wait until after firing to decide on its success. I will leave it to dry overnight then rub it with emery paper before giving it another coat. I will also add some boiled linseed oil to the mixture, as this was also mentioned to stop the Japan from becoming brittle. The linseed oil will add to the smell, too, so the BBQ's the prime contender for firing at this stage.
And that's as far as I've got. Will update when there's something else to report.
EDIT: Something else to report. I added boiled linseed oil, then gave it all a second coat:

Yes it's looking rough, but as I mentioned I'm not expecting great things (like it even working) and the finish goes smooth once it's in the oven (BBQ).
I also found that it's so thick that it covers the oil holes (notice they're all gone). Will have to take to it with a small drill bit and carefully (by hand) scoop off the 'Japan'.
Will give it today to dry (it's cold and extremely wet in Melbourne right now), or until it's slightly tacky to the touch.