Adjusting your thread tension

Before starting, remember that the bobbin tension must always be less than the top thread tension.

Some problems and their solutions.

Problem: puckering

Cause: Assuming here that you have already adjusted your presser foot. If your thread tension is too tight, the thread will pucker the fabric as you sew. Reason is that the thread pulls the seam together. It looks terrible and makes your work look cheap (look at the seams on a cheap shirt that has been worn a few times).

Solution: Loosen the top thread tension. 

Problem: Snapping thread

Cause: see above, or maybe you're using vintage cotton thread. 

Solution: If the latter, just know that old cotton is generally not usable for sewing. Throw it out or use it for a display.

Problem: thread loose and loopy at the bottom

Cause: Top tension is too loose

Solution: Increase top thread tension

Problem: Thread loose and loopy at the top

Cause: Bobbin tension is too loose

Solution: Increase bobbin thread tension.

More likely you'll have something in between and your stitches aren't balanced. Your stitches should be perfectly balanced, with a dot from the bottom just visible between top stitches and a dot of the top thread just visible between stitches at the bottom. Test this using contrasting coloured threads.

Top tension

Almost all tension problems can be fixed by adjusting or fixing the top thread. The sewing machine was designed like this so you don't have to fiddle about with the bobbin, which is always more difficult than adjusting the top.

Thread your needle, making sure the thread is between the tension discs. 

Make sure you thread it with the foot up. Reason is that when the foot is down, the discs are pressing together and will not allow the thread to sit between them. Then there is absolutely no tension on the discs. If there's no tension, chances are you threaded it while the foot was down.

Now put the foot down and pull lightly on the thread, through the needle. Not hard, and the thread should deflect (bend) the needle. Now turn the top tension toward zero. At around 1 the thread will start moving and at zero there should be almost no resistance at all. If this is not the case, you will need to adjust, or calibrate, your tension dial. If you don't want to, just don't rely on the numbers. From zero, most machines are happy for normal clothing fabric at around 2.5 to 3.5, at least on my old Singers.

I'm not going to tell you how to calibrate your machine's tension dial because your machine will almost certainly not be like mine.

Bobbin tension

If you absolutely must do this, how you do it will depend on whether it has a vertical bobbin (with removable bobbin case) or horizontal (drop-in bobbin - non-removable bobbin case).

Vertical bobbin machines: Remove the case and holding the end of the bobbin thread, let the rest (bobbin and case) hang. It should only just be able to stay still so that if you move the end of the thread up at all the thread will unravel. If this is not the case, adjust by turning the little screw in to tighten or out to loosen. Keep testing until it is perfectly balanced. Adjuster is on the tension spring, which the thread passes through.

Horizontal bobbin: Thread it through the throat plate like you were preparing to sew. Pull the end and adjust as neccesary so you just feel a little tension on the thread. Adjuster is on the tension spring.

Before I learned about all of this I probably shook with fear if a machine's tension wasn't right, but it's really not that bad. If it loops, the side opposite to the loop is too loose. If puckering, loosen the top off. For puckering, check the foot pressure before adjusting the tension or you'll have to fix the tension afterwards.

Singer 327K - Do I have a problem?

Well, duh :-)

Well, I did buy it prior to the 319K, and it was $5 (no foot controller). Here is a picture of the 327K:

Isn't she lovely? (If you also heard Stevie Wonder singing that just then you must be as old as I am). There was a problem: After cleaning and oiling, it still wouldn't sew (sigh). Tried several hours of tightening and loosening the bobbin and thread tension to discover that the actual needle bar had a slight bend in it! How could this happen? It's solid stainless steel, so I think someone must have dropped it. Luckily, there was a number on  it. Read it out to my (now) friends at sewparts, and Singer no longer make them. I was luckier on ebay, however, and two weeks later (U.S. postal service is now extremely slow) I have it. The machine now sews perfectly but of course I no longer need it. Oh well, the collection grows.
OK, back to the 319K. Here is another picture:

Her indoors is a pattern maker and made a shirt pattern based on a small Van Heusen from the 1960s. Very mod, and as I said I was itching to do something a little more manly than little girls' dresses (and skirts). The shirt is nearly finished and I've taken a few photos along the way. Next post, therefore, will be how to make a very attractive shirt. Unfortunately, I don't have a pattern number for you to search for, but if or when I learn how to digitise patterns, I'll publish it here :-)

Threading a Pinnock

It's easy to make it "Threading a Sewing Machine" but my daughter's Singer is not the same as any of my machines. Hers has a built in bobbin holder, where you just drop a bobbin in. Mine is different, and it's the only other one I've had experience on: It has a removable bobbin holder which is very common I've noticed. Also very expensive. A couple of months ago I went to a sewing shop in Thornbury and she charges $20 for a new one!! I didn't get it and a week or so later I'd bought another machine from the tip shop and it had some spares.
The bobbin tension is a real pain in the proverbial if you don't get it right, but it's really quite simple once you've seen it. There are a great many videos made that are on youtube and instructions just about everywhere, but rather than recommend one of these (you can Google for yourself I'm sure) here is my brief guide, using my partner's new (?) machine ($2 at a garage sale - yes really, but I had to clean it, oil it, grease it, give it a base and test it).
Before threading your new old machine, give it a really good clean. Thread carries and creates a lot of dust which gets stuck everywhere thread goes. The thread path plus the feed dogs and the bobbin case. All the Pinnocks I've had so far have an easily removable bobbin case, so remove it and remove all the dust and bits of thread.

1. Foot tension. I only mention this since it's a major cause of puckering. If you're getting puckering, release this a little. 2. Thread goes through this hole 3. Tensioner. Just wind it around 4. ... then back over the spring then down so it 5. ...goes around the arm.Thread through the take up arm at the top then down.	Thread through everything that looks like it will guide the thread, then through your needle. Thread goes through the needle from left to right or front to back, depending on your model.
same, but from the side	My rusty bobbin holder. The thread must do a U-turn to enter the bobbin holder's thread slot.
pull thread back toward the protruding arm. Note the tension screw in this photo	and through the hole.

And that's how to do it. Not hard but trial and error is a harsh teacher, so I hope I've saved someone some time.
EDIT (thanks Greg Livingston): Download the manual here