Showing posts with label sew. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sew. Show all posts

Monday, 12 August 2013

Best domestic machine ever?

I've fallen in love. About six months ago I bought a brown 1950s Singer 201, in mint condition.
It sat in the shed for, well, six months. Got it out when I was having trouble several layers of sewing denim (the 66 couldn't handle it easily). It went through it like a hot knife through butter. Afterwards, I imagined it saying "so what else ya got" in a Brooklyn accent. This thing is tough.
Last weekend I had no hesitation getting it out again. Someone I know had some blouses made by a sample machinist, who charged the Earth, but refused to finish with buttons and buttonholes! The buttons were easy: The 319k is made for button sewing. Looked at the 319 instruction book for button holes too. Yes it can do them but it's all very manual. I pulled out my vintage buttonholer, attached it to the 201 and started practising. The combination is just about unbeatable. Buttonholers are very cheap but sooo sophisticated. You can do a buttonhole on any straight stitch machine. How? The 'holer grabs the fabric and moves it, keeping the needle moving straight up and down. Instructions tell you to keep it slow. Hmmm... why's that? I went fast and the heavy fabric dragging on the needle pulled it far enough from its normal path that it went down on the plate and broke. Well, that's why!
So, I don't have any pictures, but here's a link to a demonstration by a guy in NYC, Peter Lappin.
I did take pics of doing the button on the 319, though. Very quick. Bummer (or otherwise) thatone machine can't do everything, isn't it? Could probably attach the buttonholer to the 319, but that'd be less fun, wouldn't it?

Thursday, 4 April 2013

Sewing a holed button with your machine

I was told this can't be done, but according to the book that came with my 319K2 it's relatively easy. After a false start, I learned the art of putting on a button with a machine (I hate doing it manually).
The pre-requisite abilities of your machine are two:
1. Disengage the feed dogs. If they work as normal they'll move the button so the needle and button will both break. If you simply set the dogs to not feed (zero), they will still push the button up and will break the button. They must be disengaged and lowered. All of my machines have a height adjustment for the feed dogs and once lowered below the throat plate, your button will be safe.
2. Zig-zag stitching. Your machine must obviously be able to stitch from one side of the button to the other. If the button has four holes, a diagonal stitch is best, if your zig-zag will reach.

Here is the relevant page from the 319K manual:
319K Manual page 70
The instructions are the same for any machine, but disengaging the feed dogs is different for other machines. A friend of mine has a 1952 Phoenix 250 that has a very convenient lever on the front of the machine which lowers the dogs. I'm not sure if putting it to 0 stitch width is even necessary, but I did it anyway.

Slowly hand crank while adjusting the zig-zag width until you're certain the needle will go into both holes before engaging the motor. Note the instructions for adding a shank.

I'm confident, after 10 buttons or so. It saves me a load of time and produces a consistent result.