Goodbye to the old, hello to the new

No, I'm not going plastic on you, good people, but the lounge room had started looking like a warehouse, with boxes stacked on cabinets and it made actual sewing (yes I still do that) really difficult. So, what should I do? Buy another machine in a cabinet of course! Two or three weeks ago (on Sunday night) someone had put an ad for a six drawer Singer cabinet in need of restoration on Gumtree for $50. Well, it looked OK in the ad, and as long as there's nothing missing I'm up for it. Yes it's shabby and yes I have no room. It lived in the back of the car for a few days. It took only a few days to get rid of the two cabinets that lived in my lounge room. My beloved 319k in lovingly restored 1960 cabinet and a model 66, which I had swapped the presser bar with a later 66 to fit side clamping feet. This brings me to what a PITA the back clamping 66 is.
The story of the back clamping goes back a bit over 100 years. I read that Singer thought it a pretty nifty idea to have the 66 as a back clamper just after they had bought the Wheeler and Wilson factory in the U.S. seeing as that's what they used.
It was a disaster, of course, and meant that the 66 had to use feet that were different to all other models, and their customers indicated their unhappiness with the back clamp. Around 1922 Singer caved in to the pressure and made all future 66s side clampers, making them compatible with, well, everything.
So every time I get a 66 it seems to be a back clamper. When the six drawer car crisis happened, I hastily converted the back clamper to use the only side clamp version I had, advertised it for a low price and of course it sold quickly. So, got the six drawer cabinet in, looked at the machine inside and it was, you guessed it, a Singer 66 back clamper! It did come with a couple of back clamp feet (which is unusual) but I'm still pretty unhappy about it.
Here's a summary of movements for the past month or so:
Out
Singer 221k featherweight (centennial, manufactured 1950)
Singer 66k in treadle cabinet (1922 - only just a back clamper!)
Singer 319k in 1960 model cabinet.

All of these seem to have gone to the right people. They were all going to see further use as sewing machines. Decisions on what had to go weren't difficult. The 319k is in a cabinet, and I have a 320k that's also in the lounge room. I did keep the cams from the 319, though. Can't understand why the 320k didn't have them, or the darning plate.

OK, now this stuff I have to rely on my memory for, because there are usually so many. In
Singer 201k treadle, original deco treadle cabinet (1946)
Singer 66k treadle, original six drawer treadle cabinet (1912)
Singer swiss zigzag attachment
Singer attachment lot (incl two more of the above, plus two buttonholers). Not arrived yet.
Singer green button hole attachment (for low shank machines, uses cams for different types of button holes) - this has not arrived yet, more than a week after I paid for it. Not happy.

Out: 66k treadle

Out: 221k Featherweight

Out: the 319k

In: The 66 - Did I mention it's a redeye?

In: The redeye's home. The top needs new veneer

Don't have a pic of the swiss zigzagger (Google it - plenty of pictures around). It has a built-in walking foot and originally came with pattern cams (I got one out of the ten), which makes it highly desirable for a straight sewing machine like a featherweight, a 201 or a 66.

A couple of new machines

It's getting a bit beyond a joke now. I've bought two more machines and was given one. They are:
1891 Singer VS-2 Fiddle Base.
1950s (serial number unlisted) Singer 227M, and
1950s (probably) Liberty (Japanese Singer 15K clone).

Liberty is here

Best thing about it is that it's a hand crank machine. Thought that it might just fit the VS-2 but the mounting isn't there for the older one. Still, after lubrication it goes like a beauty. That said, just winding a bobbin was initially fun but quickly became exhausting.
The VS-2 is next

As you can see the decals are almost non-existent. Also, that motor had to go. It was a conversion, probably in the 1950s, had no controller at all, and had no plug "for safety reasons". Does one really need anything more? Out it went, with all its accompaniments (brackets, belt). You can see that the original coffin top came with it, so I'd really like to restore this machine back to its original state. Kind of expensive, considering. The metal parts all need re-plating (in nickel), so I got rid of all the old stuff and polished it up. If it looks crappy later, I'll do it, but the cost is getting up there.
The 'paint' you see on these old machines is actually not paint at all, but "Japanning". This is a mixture of asphaltum, shellac and boiled linseed oil which is painted on then fired at about 140C for several hours. I think this machine deserves a new covering after 122 years of service.
So, I was on the look out for a treadle table for it, and found one. $50 later and I had a 1950s table. OK, not time matched, but it'll work. It also came with a Singer 227M. Straight stitch machine with no booklet, attachments or anything else (deceased estate, the family threw a lot of stuff out, as they do). The machine is quite a good one, but with no ZZ plate or attachment, or light, motor etc it's pretty useless. Anyway, have to go, but I'm going to melt an old 78 record in methylated spirit and add some boiled linseed oil (the records consist mainly of asphaltum and shellac), a common practice apparently and onto the hooded BBQ it goes for three hours. Let you know how it turns out.
EDIT: Here's the 227M:

Sewing a holed button with your machine

I was told this can't be done, but according to the book that came with my 319K2 it's relatively easy. After a false start, I learned the art of putting on a button with a machine (I hate doing it manually).
The pre-requisite abilities of your machine are two:
1. Disengage the feed dogs. If they work as normal they'll move the button so the needle and button will both break. If you simply set the dogs to not feed (zero), they will still push the button up and will break the button. They must be disengaged and lowered. All of my machines have a height adjustment for the feed dogs and once lowered below the throat plate, your button will be safe.
2. Zig-zag stitching. Your machine must obviously be able to stitch from one side of the button to the other. If the button has four holes, a diagonal stitch is best, if your zig-zag will reach.

Here is the relevant page from the 319K manual:

319K Manual page 70

The instructions are the same for any machine, but disengaging the feed dogs is different for other machines. A friend of mine has a 1952 Phoenix 250 that has a very convenient lever on the front of the machine which lowers the dogs. I'm not sure if putting it to 0 stitch width is even necessary, but I did it anyway.

Slowly hand crank while adjusting the zig-zag width until you're certain the needle will go into both holes before engaging the motor. Note the instructions for adding a shank.

I'm confident, after 10 buttons or so. It saves me a load of time and produces a consistent result.