Dress and Blouse for the Little Woman

Robert Fritzlaff is a shining inspiration to me. He is a male designer of women's clothing in the 1950s and '60s (apparently a bit in the '70s too). He is also heterosexual. Yes, I know it shouldn't matter but it does. Sewing dresses for GF and daughter shouldn't be this enjoyable for a hetero male, but thanks to RF there is a precedent. Actually it's possibly not that uncommon. RFs taste in clothing is brilliant, too, as is his view of high fashion today ("garbage").
OK, off the soap box. I started making a dress yesterday:
Butterick 4061 (1965), Size 16T, Bust 36 "proportioned for teens" for my girlfriend, who left her teens even before I did, but we'll see how it fits when I'm finished. She gave me two more hurdles, being I must use an invisible zipper, and I must re-use a skirt section of an old dress she bought at a garage sale (sigh).
I forgot to scan or photograph the pattern cover but it looks like this:

I've been given the task of creating 'A'.
Cover tells me how much fabric I need (which I ignore, since I have to re-use old pieces). I also need interfacing for the facing.
One thing I found curious is that the pattern keeps mentioning the "Jumper". This is referring to the bodice. I kept looking for a jumper and for the bodice instructions, but they're one and the same!
So, cut out the fabric. I did just the bodice first, rather than all of the cutting at the start (means I don't have to use a hundred pins all at once). The first thing to do is to attach the interfacing to the facing - fusing is the name for the modern version. It must be pressed on and heated (iron or press), and is to be applied to the inside of the facing.
I cut out parts 1, 2, 3 and 4 in linen and 3 and 4 again in interfacing (Tip: Lay the interfacing on the linen and pattern pieces on top - saves cutting twice). Then trimmed 3/8" from the bottom of the interfacing and fused it to the wrong side of the linen.

Cutting the front and back. Notice dot triangle at fold

Facings. Only #3 has the dot triangles

The dot triangles are Butterick for "place at fabric fold", because the piece has to be continuous and double the size of the pattern piece. Different pattern vendors have different codes for this. Also, the two big dots on #4 must line up with the grain of the fabric (the same thread must go through them both). Not doing so with affect how the garment will move or how it stretches, so it's quite important.
Butterick has "easy steps" in following their pattern. Unfortunately, some of these are very complex.
Step 1: To make dart in BODICE FRONT, bring small dots together. Stitch, tapering to single dot, press down.
Seems straightforward, make the bust darts in the front piece (big piece with the dot triangle), then press down. But wait, there's more!
Trim 3/8" from lower edge of front interfacing. Baste to inside of bodice front as shown. Here we must depart from the instructions. In the '60s the interfacing had to be stitched. Now it doesn't. Since you have pressed it on, you need to ignore any mention of stitching it on without the facing. It is attached to the facing, and they should be treated as a single unit.
Sorry, I was not going to publish this in parts, but now will since I'm taking so damn long to hem the thing. Invisible hemming is the last step, and I badly misinterpreted the instructions in the Singer manual. Now I'm off work for a while so will post again shortly.

Men's shirt patterns

Last time I mentioned the latest tailoring effort as a slim fit 1960s shirt. Well, after trawling for patterns it seems there isn't really one out there :-(
The closest I got were three 1960s patterns, but none of them seem to be slim fitting. I prefer the slim fit because it looks better on a slim man (now that I'm half the man I used to be - well, maybe 75%). We all need to use clothes to show us in our best light, don't we? The ladies certainly do (not so much these days, of course). In the U.S. two years ago it was really easy to find vintage shirts and suits, but they were all huge. Americans eat a lot more than Aussies, it seems. I'm currently wearing one of my thrift shop bargains though. An Italian suit, probably '90s but it doesn't matter when it fits this well. Classic design, with pin stripes, and very slim fit. The price? Same as a good op shop here: $10. Can't promise to ever learn to make suits, since it would take many years to make something even acceptable, but shirts are a different matter.
I hereby promise to attempt to create and publish an electronic pattern from the paper one I made my shirt from. Here are two pictures of it as it is now - I have yet to sew button holes on:
The seams are something my teacher's very proud of. Also, this machine sews beautifully, and it's just a pleasure to use it. The pedal looks bizarre - it's made of bakelite, and has a solid post right next to the switch for your foot to pivot on while you're using it, but it's very smooth. Some of this is probably the thorough clean and oil last week, but most is definitely due to the quality of the build back in 1960. Since teacher isn't here and I can't remember what it's called I won't go on about it, but side seams are pressed flat, then toward the back. The seam closest to the back is cut by half and the longer one folded over it. It's pinned in place like that and stitched. Looks very nice (better than the finish in the original shirt). The fabric was just what shirting was available, a nice plain green. Obviously you can make from something a bit groovier than this, but I chose the plain in case I screwed it up. Wasting 25 cents worth of fabric is not something I'd cry over. Besides, it'll still be a great looking shirt that feels good too. And that's not even mentioning that other feeling, of having made it!
Etsy seems to be the best place to find vintage patterns. The three I found earlier today are simplicity 4160, simplicity 7745 and butterick 5897. Just remember that pattern numbers are re-used so include 1960s in your search. I'll figure out some time how to digitise the pattern I have.

dress project all done

Yes, I finished it. A while ago, actually (4th Jan), but forgot to write about it.

Here it is:
The mannequin was something I didn't really know much about so the creases are there because I didn't know how to adjust the waist.
It looks better than this when worn, of course, but not as good as the drawing (do they ever look that good?). The neckline was supposed to be the hardest thing to get right but I had no trouble with this. Just followed the lines of the pattern piece and the instructions.
Since it was a few weeks ago now, I can't recall if I had many problems, but nothing springs to mind. It REALLY helps to have a sewing person as a resource, though. Doing a skirt for eldest daughter now (13½ Y.O.) and have had problems with puckering of the seams (there are 18 vertical seams) and have to undo all of these now (my resource wasn't there to tell me to stop)

Project

Making a Dress

When it comes to making clothes, I can't see why men are different to women. Luckily I live with two of them, so here is the classic black dress I wanted to make:

simplicity 5707 (1966)

It's the one on the right.
Like I said, since the pattern is second hand, there's usually no need to cut out the pattern pieces. I'm making dress #2.

Measure

Firstly, grab your tape and measure your subject's vital statistics. Obviously you should do this before choosing the pattern, but if the subject thinks she's a certain size just ignore this. Size 18 is huge these days, but this dress size was not the same in the 1960s. The most important part is the bust size, but there is more information on the back:

back of packet contains valuable information

Choose a fabric

Reading the back of the pattern envelope, look at the type and amount of fabric required. We're using polyester/linen, so for #2, look at the right: "nap is the raised (fuzzy) surface on certain kinds of cloth, such as velvet" (from wikipedia). The size on the left of the table refers to the fabric width. If you have, say, 42" fabric without nap, you'll need 2 7/8 yards. OK, a yard is 90cm, so 180 (2 yd) + 78.75 (7/8 yd) = 258.75cm. I'd just get 3m.

Check the contents, read instructions

Inside the envelope you find the instructions. Take these out (you should definitely check that this is there as well as all the pattern pieces before you buy second hand patterns). If anything is missing, you probably won't be able to make the garment.
Instructions tell you how to lay the pattern pieces on the fabric to minimise fabric waste. If there's one piece of advice to give other learners it's to read all of the instructions, and don't ignore something if you don't understand it.

The right side

The fabric must be folded right sides together. Right sides together is an expression you'll get to know well. The right side is the one that will be on the exterior of the garment, and the wrong side will be on the inside, possibly hidden by lining but not seen when the garment is worn. Right sides are always sewn together.

Cut it out!

Lay the paper pattern pieces on the fabric as per instructions and pin them on. Using loads of pins means you will get much better cut fabric. The pattern pieces will have lots of markings too. These must nearly all be marked onto the fabric before you start using that piece. My daughter's dress pattern (and this one) both suggested tailor's tacks for this. This means you have a long piece of contrasted cotton (e.g. you have black fabric, so use white cotton), double it over then poke the fold loop through a needle so you have four threads coming from the needle's eye. On simplicity patterns, the three big circles signify a side that is on the fold and the two big circles must be on connecting threads so you don't have to mark these. On all other circles, put the needle through like you're sewing a four hole button. Leave a large loop and cut about an inch above the pattern/fabric. When all of these are done on all the pieces (this takes a long time) move on to the cut out v shapes. Snip the fabric (it doesn't have to be a v - just a single snip is enough). If you think this is a massive pain, so did I. The Simplicity book gives you two alternatives, one of which being to mark these holes with tailor's chalk. To make sure the side that's on the table gets marked correctly, you should put a pin through the centre of each hole in turn, lift the fabric and mark the other side: I found it easiest to change the angle of the pin three times and mark each one (so there's chalk pointing to the centre).

pinned pieces. Marking is next

pin through to mark the other side

Read the instructions and test your machine

Now you can start reading the instructions again.
Before you start sewing, you must test what you're going to sew with a fabric off cut. Fold it in two and sew together. I find that I'll have to modify various settings before it sews nicely. Here's what to look for: puckering (foot pressure is too much or thread tension too high), missed stitches (bent needle or thread too loose), one side of the thread is straight and the other is OK (too much thread tension on the side with the straight thread) and thread looping (not enough thread tension on the loopy side). Fix the problems and you should have a nice even stitch.

Mark your seam

Old patterns usually have a 5/8" seam allowance (seam allowance is the overhanging bit after you stitch two pieces together), so it's really helpful to have 5/8" to the right of the needle marked somehow. Some machines have markings on the plate: Singers usually do, my Pinnock doesn't, so I have a small sewing magnet that will attach to the plate. This has a straight edge. Alternatively, you can keep measuring every time, but this is annoying and really unnecessary.
OK, follow the instructions one at a time. Don't skip any.

Start to sew

Patterns will usually ask you to sew the bodice first (it's the hardest part), starting with a row of "stay stitching" around the neck line and shoulders. This is to prevent the fabric from stretching or changing shape in any way. You do this on front and back sections, just inside the 5/8" seam allowance (you don't want it to show, or you'll have to un-pick it later) then usually sew the darts (bust and back) then sew the front to the back at the shoulders then the sides.

How to sew

OK, I'm not a typical blogger. I'm a male and a teacher. You may notice that all my blogs have knowledge sharing as a common theme. So, without further ado, here's how a middle aged man learns to sew.

I have an advantage over the average learner, being that I share a house with a pattern maker who is, well, rather good at all of this. So, if you think I'm a genius for doing so much so quickly, just remember this advantage and don't be discouraged: When I got stuck, I stopped what I was doing and sat down. After a while, the answer usually came to me.

Step 0: Gather resources
If you have a seamstress/tailor at hand you'll be well ahead. I have a good in-house resource but if you don't, you're not lost yet. Most women over 60 will be able to sew and willing to help you, so find a relative.
Most pattern publishers will have a book full of tips and techniques. They'll also explain the terms sewers use. I have the Butterick, Vogue, M^cCalls and two Simplicity books (1957 and 1974). The Butterick book was from ebay ($9) and was published in 1949. The rest were all from op shops and church/garage sales.
The third resource is the Internet, which you clearly have already. I was still unsure about putting a zipper in my daughter's dress, so I watched a youtube video. Problem solved.

Step 1: Buy sewing stuff
I got my machine from various places, and they were all really cheap. If you want an old sewing machine, they're easily obtainable from op shops (although all the ones I've seen are around $65), car swap meets where I've seen many from $10 to $30 (my Aussie Pinnock, in mint condition as well as a hand operated 1930s Jones). You also have the option of collectibles bazaars. In the Glen Waverley one there are several machines available, from $19 upwards. If you want a new machine you're looking at a Chinese option. New machines are definitely not my area but you can buy one for just over $100. They're lighter than the old ones but I personally wouldn't have one. If you're after a classic Singer (black and silver) with a treadle and table, you need deep pockets (a very average one will still set you back nearly $200), but I saw an electric Singer black and silver machine there a few months ago for $65! Even more surprising is that it sat near the front counter for over a month before someone bought it. I wasn't tempted, since it was still more than my budget allowed (hard for me to justify spending that much on any machine). Here's the best reason to buy a Singer over a Pinnock: Support. They are still around today and support their machines back to the 1950s models (at least). They have always been extremely popular, so they're very easy to find. Parts are easy to get and cheap (sewparts have an excellent stock of Singer parts) and Singer, being around in the Internet era, offer manuals as free downloads. I chose a Pinnock and have a lot of trouble finding manuals and parts, but with lots of spare machines, I hope it will go on for a while yet.
You'll also need hand sewing stuff. This is all pretty cheap and I can recommend sewparts in Victoria Street. By far the friendliest and most helpful shop I've been to. No, I don't work there, have shares or get a commission: When people are all nice and helpful, you want to go back there and tell everyone. They also have the basic sewing stuff very cheap (in the front window). You'll need two packs of pins, extra needles and bobbins for your machine and some thread (black, white and colours to match the fabrics in your first pattern) as well as a fabric tape measure, tailors chalk and a good pair of fabric scissors.
A large table is helpful to cut your fabric on, and an iron and ironing board are absolutely essential (you have to iron the pattern flat before cutting, and almost every time you do something).

Step 2: Choose a pattern
You have to have a pattern. Trying to make clothes without one is pointless. Even in Victorian times they used them. You must measure the person you're making the clothes for, as will be mentioned in your book. Chest (widest part), waist (narrowest part) and hips (widest) are the measurements you need. Write it down in inches and centimetres if you're thinking about old patterns, or just centimetres if you'll stick to new.
I like vintage clothes, so I get my patterns from op shops. They aren't that easy to find but if you find a good shop, they're usually about 20 to 50 cents each.If you don't want to trawl through thousands of modern patterns to get to the good vintage stuff, go to the aforementioned bazaar. There are at least two really good stalls that sell just vintage patterns for about $5.
If you have children of either gender you'll find a large choice. Kids' clothes are easier to make in general, and women (only women ever made women's and kids' clothing) seldom made their own clothes, it seems. So if you have kids, look for a kids pattern to start with.
Incidentally, it pays to like the older designs. New patterns are more work (you have to cut them from a big sheet, whereas secondhand ones have been done already) as well as more expensive (my eldest daughter found one at Savers with an original price of $27.50!).
Here's my first vintage dress pattern:

Simplicity 5993 (1966)

Step 3: Fabric
This is actually written on the pattern. Have a look at the back and you'll see what type of fabric should be used. There are usually two or three, but cotton is normal for kids' clothing. My girl chose a pattern that included a lined jacket (bottom centre in the pattern photo), so I had to ask for "shirting" for the jacket. My resource #1 had loads of light blue polka dot dress fabric, which the girl said would be perfect.
Spotlight and Lincraft are the shops I buy fabric from. Op shops are a bit useless for fabric, since they only ever get people's off cuts (usually much less than a metre long) and they aren't all that cheap anyway.

OK, that's about all I can write in one session (I have a dress to make for resource #1 for an xmas present) so here is how Simplicity 5993 turned out: