Well, first one finished this morning.
Here are the steps:
- Select fabric.
- Decide how big your squares will be and how many you'll need.
- Add seam allowance, then cut out the number you need.
- Lay them out to see how it will look.
- Sew them together in strips.
- Sew strips together.
- Select and cut a backing, same size as sewn front.
- Cut wadding, slightly bigger than the backing.
- Sandwich the wadding between front and back.
- Pin the centre of it together.
- Push from the centre outwards a little at a time and pin as you go.
- Either free motion sew from the centre outwards, or fit a walking foot to your machine and just follow the same lines of stitching as the top.
- Cut binding in long strips (not on the bias) then diagonally join into a single long strip.
- Stitch this strip onto the back of the quilt.
- Fold over, then blind stitch to the front.
Here is a little more detail:
Selection of fabric is okay if you have an eye for it, but make sure you lay it out on a flat surface first. Choose similar weights of fabric or the result will feel a bit strange.
Make sure your calculations are all good. A lot of work goes into this, so screwing it up isn't desirable.
I selected an old wool blanket as my wadding. It's 100% natural, warm and recycled. Obviously, you need to wash it if you choose this option.
|old wool blanket, with finished quilted top|
It's really important to cut squares accurately, so use a rotary cutter, self-healing mat and metal ruler.
It's important to be accurate sewing the squares together and even more important joining the strips together. Inaccuracy looks like a dog's breakfast.
Fit a good walking foot to your machine, unless you have a Pfaff with IDT (built-in walking foot). I was surprised that my Singer 201 didn't feed the layers well at all until I put a Janome walking foot on it. The WF was made in Japan. I wouldn't recommend using a cheap one.
Sandwich the layers and pin the centres. As you sew, the layers will want to move against each other. A lot of quilters use a spray on glue to hold them still, but I didn't have any, nor am I inclined to put glue on my work. I used a whole box of quilting pins instead, which held it reasonably well. Flatten the quilt outwards as you pin toward the outside.
An alternative to what I did (stitching along the grid lines) is to free motion quilt. This involves the use of a hopping foot, whose only task is to prevent the work from moving when the needle is in the fabric. The feed dog should be dropped (or set to no motion if your machine doesn't allow dropping) and the best machines for this have a vertical bobbin. Drop-in bobbin machines have trouble with tension when doing free motion work. Free motion quilting allows you to put beautiful swirly thread designs on your quilt. Since this was my first one, I kept it simple.
The binding needs to be folded in half, then the raw edges gets sewn to the backing side. The corners need to be handled in a specific way, so I recommend these videos from McCall's quilting.
Fold it over and blind stitch the other side by hand. Ensure the thread travels along the edge only inside fabric, so it is always hidden.
|Back of finished blanket|
|The front. Not perfect, but not bad.|