Tuesday, 9 December 2014

Harrington in detail part 2

I was determined to finish this today but can't find the ribbing (for sleeves and bottom of the jacket) and had to stop again. Anyway, took loads of pictures, so here we go with the self (which is now complete).
Wrong side piece of back facing
This had to be overlocked (or serged in the U.S.) then turned under. As I've mentioned before, the 1890s narrow hemmers found in puzzle boxes are brilliant for this. They will fit an overlocked edge and will turn only once. In the other pics, this piece looks like a bat wing and goes on the inside of the upper facing.
Phoaah! Look at her go. Lovely work

These were sewn together. Notice that I always pin, baste, sew.
Remember also that you need to remove the pins after basting and before sewing. There are several advantages to the basting. Here are a few:
1. Chances of sticking a pin into your skin are reduced about 95%
2. The fabrics both sit flatter against each other and are much less likely to move during sewing.
And a few hints about basting:
1. When basting a tricky bit (sewing anything that has ease, sleeves, etc.) or when matching a pattern, make your stitches smaller. The reason is obvious if you have ever tried sewing after just pinning alone!
2. Use a weak thread. I didn't in this case, because I didn't have any weak, brightly coloured thread. Weak threads are easier to remove if you have to break them. Very old cotton thread tends to be very weak. It's useless for sewing. This is why old garments tend to fall apart - sewn with cotton, which falls apart with age.
3. Use contrasting thread. Easier to see.
4. Don't baste exactly where you're going to sew, or you won't easily be able to remove the thread afterwards.
Same as previous photo, but sewn now
Sewed bat wing shaped facing piece from first two pics to the large facing piece

Back facing in place. Bat wing from first pics is underneath now
Press now and bar tack the two points at the bottom of the facing.
Sew shoulders together, press seams open
 When putting any top together, you need to sew the shoulders together at the start of assembly (that's what we're starting to do here). It's like cooking in that way (don't get me started on cooking, that's a whole 'nother blog) in that everything needs to be prepared before putting it together.
Sew the sleeve in
Sometimes you'll be sewing the sleeve together and then inserting it. In this case, we are doing a "drop shoulder" so we sew the sleeve and side together in one go.
Putting it around an imaginary arm helps to ease

Really important to baste the sleeve after pinning due to ease

After stitching, no pleats or puckering.

The sleeve and side will be matched RST and stitched in one go. Pin,


Looks like this

Turned the right way, it's taking shape
 The collar is next. It will be sewn RST, one to each side of the collar.
Prepare collar. Stitch down the side and across to the nick

Trimmed and turned, and with topstitching

The white part is the interfacing inside the collar

Looks like this after stitching. Must be precise here.

Collar must be stitched together, jacket is almost done.

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