1. Practice pocketsMake these until you completely understand how it's done and you're certain they will all be perfect from now on.
2. CuttingDo all of this before anything else. Both self (outside of your jacket, the drill), the lining and the interfacing.
3. InterfacingInterface the collar, the pocket flaps, pocket welts and the wrong side of the fabric, where the pockets are going to be. If you don't know this, interfacing provides stiffness and strength. Pockets in bomber jackets cop a lot of punishment (my jackets do anyway).
4. Make the pocketsAll of them. Start with the hard ones, being the self pockets, then do the lining pocket.
5. Sew the lining togetherThis is precisely where I'm at now. I stopped to explain to you, dear reader/s, how to do it, and my pattern maker didn't explain how to put the self together: The top of the back is quite different to any I've done so far so I have to wait until I see her again before proceeding.
OK, the pockets. I won't be scanning the picture from the Vogue sewing book because it's possibly still copyrighted in the U.S. (the book is 44 years old) so I have my photos.
|Flap and welt pinned and being basted into place|
|pocket flaps go on next|
Bottom - the front left or right (I'll assume you want one on each side).
On top of the bottom - At the top is the finished flap. At the bottom is the welt. Now, the welt fold must be exactly 17mm outside the white box (the white box is solid line. That broken line is basting thread. The longer side of the white box is exactly the same as the flap. The welt should be longer than the shorter side, as the excess will be pushed inside after all this is over. I pinned both of these bits in place so they wouldn't move when I put the pockets on top.
Put the pockets on top. The top part has some self joined to the lining (which I'm using as pocketing) because this will be visible when the pocket is opened. Pin this in place too. The bottom pocket part goes on first and reaches about halfway inside the white box. The top pocket part sits on top and covers the whole box. Here's a close up of this:
|Everything basted into place. Pins removed before stitching|
|interfaced wrong side of self fabric|
|Arrows point to the little triangles you need to make|
|then turn it over|
|Front of jacket. Welt is perfectly joined.|
Sewing the lining togetherThis is quite basic. Stay stitch the shoulders and neck then pin, baste and stitch the front and back at the shoulders. Press seams open (they don't have to be finished).
|Remove the pins before stitching|
Pin then baste and stitch the sleeve together with the side of the jacket in one go.
If you're asking why I always baste it's because with just pins holding the two sides together the fabrics move when the machine gets close to the pins. When it's a pattern like this, it is very noticeable.
|Tacky 1960s suit?|